Well, this gun is turning into an odd one. In addition to the pawl hanging up, somewhere along the route in shipping the hammer plunger retaining pin fell out, and the hammer plunger fell out, I thought they were removed before the hammer was shipped but no, it fell apart in shipping. I didn't even know until I found the plunger on my living room floor last night and I am like what in the world is this? So the plunger went back in the mail by itself. Where I am going with this is that those pins are usually tight, the plunger doesn't just fall out if you take the gun apart, and the plungers used to be nice and snugly fitted, they were rounded on the ends and polished. This one is all squared on the ends and looks like they just cut one out of a length of stainless TiG wire and stuck it in there all sloppy and then stuck a loose fitting pin in there to hold it. Once the gun is put together it can't fall apart but woe to the one who decides to take it down and do a deep cleaning on it or send the hammer off to a smith..
As far as what I do to the hammer, I simply reduce the height of the hammer pad, ala David Bradshaw which gives the sear less travel before it breaks and the gun fires. I purposely do not target 100% of the creep, I try and reduce it where once you do detect any movement, the gun fires. It doesn't lessen the engagement any at all and it's still a safe but much more liveable trigger afterwards. I do not modify the trigger at all, nor do I modify the ledge which the trigger sear rests under when the gun is cocked, so it retains the exact contact pattern it always had. I do recommend the Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring, and the stock Ruger hammer spring. The goal is to be able to (dry) fire the gun and the sights remain motionless during lock time (the hammer falling) and the reduced trigger return spring and the reduced hammer pad aid this goal tremendously. If there is still a bit of movement in the sight picture, one can simply pull one leg off of the trigger return spring and let it hang, further reducing the spring tension.
As far as what I do to the hammer, I simply reduce the height of the hammer pad, ala David Bradshaw which gives the sear less travel before it breaks and the gun fires. I purposely do not target 100% of the creep, I try and reduce it where once you do detect any movement, the gun fires. It doesn't lessen the engagement any at all and it's still a safe but much more liveable trigger afterwards. I do not modify the trigger at all, nor do I modify the ledge which the trigger sear rests under when the gun is cocked, so it retains the exact contact pattern it always had. I do recommend the Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring, and the stock Ruger hammer spring. The goal is to be able to (dry) fire the gun and the sights remain motionless during lock time (the hammer falling) and the reduced trigger return spring and the reduced hammer pad aid this goal tremendously. If there is still a bit of movement in the sight picture, one can simply pull one leg off of the trigger return spring and let it hang, further reducing the spring tension.
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