The container on the right is Eagle #8, The container on the left is Hrpenley #8 (it kind of looks smaller in this pic but its lower in the container, the eagle is full to the top, they are actually the same size)
If you look they are not perfect spheres and the occasional swan or oddball I missed in the screen but I'm not that picky its skeet with friends, I blended pure lead and superhard for 5% Sb content. My next run I will be using a new alloy that has same PbSb content but will add an additional 0.15-0.20 % Arsenic content to see if I can improve it a bit.
This is my home made rig, I had my buddy weld up a box that matched the dimensions I found online, drilled it out and got me a couple sets of Littleton nozzles thing I got 6, 7.5, 8, 9 . installed a temp probe and PID. first I tried the electric plate to heat it, (2nd or 3rd now serves as a great base for wiring) that wasen't cutting it, I think it was a little larger than the standard plate will take, I kept kicking them out, so of course I bypassed the thermal protection and fusing. they worked for a while..... Then great Idea!!!!!
I got a 5gal bucket of 3000deg kiln base plaster. Above is my first attempt, I kept it don't know why but it works good to cool lead ingots on now., Once I learned how to work with it correctly, I took an electric oven coil, did the calculations and stretched it to the right size (lines show the loop path) I poured my mold in 3 parts 1;Base) I selected a plastic Tupperware container just a little larger than my shot maker shell and about 4" deep, (dimensions will vary to whatever your shot maker happens to be) I cut some high temp kiln insulation as you can see in the above picture just under the shot-maker shell. (there is also a sheet of it attached to the front to protect plastic wires and hose lines from any lead splash) I used it to line all 4 sides of the Tupperware container (Now to be referred to as mold). I filled the mold with about 1" of plaster then placed another sheet 1"-1.5" smaller (if you have an 8" sq. mold then cut the insulation to 6.5"-7") of the insulation on top center of the fresh plaster. 2 body) I then poured an additional 1.5" of plaster on top of that (still wet) I then lined it with saran wrap, seated the shot maker down in the mold and pushed it down and tilted it to a forward angle I added enough extra plaster to fill the walls up around the shot-maker shell and let it start to set up. Once it was firm I removed the shot maker and plastic, I then carved out the path for my electric coil. I used some stainless steel U type pins to hold the coil in place, I also made a few extra holes for the next part. 3 finish) as soon as I had the coil and ceramic connector in place I poured an additional 1/2" or so of plaster over the top of the coil. I put more plastic wrap on it - re-seated the shotmaker shell, got my incline back where it needed to be after a little fight with now stiffer plaster and let it get firmed up. Pulled the plastic off and let it dry. After the learning curve, some "tuning" and a lot of lip polishing it actually worked out pretty well as you can see by the results, It does however have a few drawbacks, it dosent get hot as fast as I would like, the coil was rated 3000w/220, 1500w/120 It would probably run better on 220 but I don't have it available without running new lines across the house and I find I have to use a torch on the drip lip a number of times to keep it from sticking and really only on the outer nozzles Other than that it holds temp good and makes pretty good shot. My winter project is to redesign the heating base instead of just 1 coil I will use 1 on the base like before but I will be adding an aditional coil to the sides and under the lip along with a higher wall for insulation. I think that will get rid of most of the remaining issues, below is a pic of the coils I used and will be using in the new version.