Rcmaveric
Active Member
Would pistols and riffles need a different lube? Most of these discussions seam to revolve around riffle use. There is the problem of hot summer suns and long shot string heat have caused me problems mostly with pistols and a couple times with riffles doing load tests. Then there is the problem of loads developed in the summer with riffles in 90+ degree average and then hunting in the winter. Hunting, your frozen to a tree stand with Ice on the barrel, then by noon its in the 80+ and your stripping. Only for it drop to the 30's as soon as the sun starts touching the horizon.
Bens Red worked very well for me and it simply just doesn't lead no matter how hard i have pushed a bullet. When i do something i try to read and learn as much as possible, so I have read and followed your lube quest and try to read and take notes when all of you speak of lubes. I actually have a note book cataloguing lube recipes and ingredients and why using them. While shooting i occasional get a few fliers every now and then. I always attributed it to my poor reloading technique like neck tension and its not bad flyers. I still use it as i have a lot of it. I never figured it would take so long to use 5 pounds of lube. It was not till i was load developing on a hot day and i noticed i had two distinct two different very tight groups from 10 shots for my 30-30. One group dead POA and the other is 3 inches high and 1 in to the left. Then i remember from your other lube article about lube purging. So that's when i started playing with different lubes.
I had made a batch of simple for my pistols and thought why not try it in the 30-30. It tightened up those groups and i haven't tried it in the other riffles since i am happy with their accuracy. I remember when fiver told me of the Carnauba wax on the other forum. If i am not mistaken as long as the percentage stays about 5% or less it wont cause any low temp problems. I haven't tried it yet because i had the H-1 and was curious about its it really high melt point (208*). My simple lube concoction performs great. It did melt a bit and caused a squib while shooting off 500 rounds with friends and family on hot 90 degree day. Had to move it out of the sun. Seamed like after a long shot string it start to lead a bit. I could see it in the barrel but it didn't degrade my accuracy on the plates. I mostly shoot plates with pistols. Once i got home it cleaned out quickly and easily. I have tried other easy lubes and methods of lubing including like PC, but i can not get PC to work for me in plane based pistol bullets, or more specifically 9mm and 380 ACP. Tried some Lee tumble lube and it didn't perform like i wanted. Made some 45/45/10 finally and have a few test bullets loaded to try with SL-68B as well. Just about any lube can and does work, as long as i keep the ammo and gun out of the beating down sun. Just need to find a pistol lube that wont melt in the sun or degrade in hot barrel. I don't like Lee alox mess on my hands, but the 45/45/10 actually made a nice shell that i could handle with out making smell like corrosion preventative compound. I am starting to wonder if a soap lube may be the ticket to prevent the lube from melting or being degraded by the cooking sun and heat. I also plan on making some simple lube with 5% Carnauba.
Took me a awhile to save my lunch money for the Micro waxes but i have the 140*, 190* and this stuff called Paraflint H-1 (i used it like an ultra high melt point micro wax, i am most likely dead wrong, however it flows through my sizer easy enough). Mostly it appears a reverse engineered wax complex sounded or was hinted at being most useful to cover all the bases. How ever reading a Wiki it seamed that all micro waxes are the same and just the mineral oil was added back in to create the various different melt points. I went along with JonB's formula as close as i could to recreate it. I must have gotten way behind in the lube articles because i didn't know of the positive qualities of paraffin wax. I always thought it should have been avoided, i thank you for that enlightenment. I have started lubing tests bullets with SL-68B and it performed great in the 30-30 and made the tightest group i have gotten yet. I haven't tried it in the other calibers because i want to finish shooting off all the Bens Red, but i am thinking it may be the reason i was getting those random flyers. However that is mere speculation and may be the reloader and the jerk only testing and confirmation will either confirm or deny. I look forward to testing all these out and cooking up a batch of the SL-71B. For riffles the goal is to create a lube that wont purge or degrade accuracy during the summer and will put a bullet within 1 MOA of point of aim in the winter on a cold barrel that hasn't been shot recently.
So my experience and knowledge is limited and what i do know is mostly just parroted from what you all have already said. However i have tried to put what i read to practical use and this is what i have learned. Everything has a practical use, just have to learn when to use it. When you say high temperature paraffin, does that refer to a specific paraffin or will any paraffin work? Gulf wax is the easiest and cheapest to get my hands on and i am not sure if its 140*.
I am not good at writing either. I tend to have idea and word vomit. So bare with my poor grammar made worse by a high stress job fueled with dark coffee that has 8 times the normal caffeine content. I also cast and reload for the following caliber: .380 ACP, 9mm Luger, .357 Mag, 6.5 Grendel, .260 Remington, .270 Win, 30-30, 50 Cal Muzzle Loader, and 12 Gauge.
Bens Red worked very well for me and it simply just doesn't lead no matter how hard i have pushed a bullet. When i do something i try to read and learn as much as possible, so I have read and followed your lube quest and try to read and take notes when all of you speak of lubes. I actually have a note book cataloguing lube recipes and ingredients and why using them. While shooting i occasional get a few fliers every now and then. I always attributed it to my poor reloading technique like neck tension and its not bad flyers. I still use it as i have a lot of it. I never figured it would take so long to use 5 pounds of lube. It was not till i was load developing on a hot day and i noticed i had two distinct two different very tight groups from 10 shots for my 30-30. One group dead POA and the other is 3 inches high and 1 in to the left. Then i remember from your other lube article about lube purging. So that's when i started playing with different lubes.
I had made a batch of simple for my pistols and thought why not try it in the 30-30. It tightened up those groups and i haven't tried it in the other riffles since i am happy with their accuracy. I remember when fiver told me of the Carnauba wax on the other forum. If i am not mistaken as long as the percentage stays about 5% or less it wont cause any low temp problems. I haven't tried it yet because i had the H-1 and was curious about its it really high melt point (208*). My simple lube concoction performs great. It did melt a bit and caused a squib while shooting off 500 rounds with friends and family on hot 90 degree day. Had to move it out of the sun. Seamed like after a long shot string it start to lead a bit. I could see it in the barrel but it didn't degrade my accuracy on the plates. I mostly shoot plates with pistols. Once i got home it cleaned out quickly and easily. I have tried other easy lubes and methods of lubing including like PC, but i can not get PC to work for me in plane based pistol bullets, or more specifically 9mm and 380 ACP. Tried some Lee tumble lube and it didn't perform like i wanted. Made some 45/45/10 finally and have a few test bullets loaded to try with SL-68B as well. Just about any lube can and does work, as long as i keep the ammo and gun out of the beating down sun. Just need to find a pistol lube that wont melt in the sun or degrade in hot barrel. I don't like Lee alox mess on my hands, but the 45/45/10 actually made a nice shell that i could handle with out making smell like corrosion preventative compound. I am starting to wonder if a soap lube may be the ticket to prevent the lube from melting or being degraded by the cooking sun and heat. I also plan on making some simple lube with 5% Carnauba.
Took me a awhile to save my lunch money for the Micro waxes but i have the 140*, 190* and this stuff called Paraflint H-1 (i used it like an ultra high melt point micro wax, i am most likely dead wrong, however it flows through my sizer easy enough). Mostly it appears a reverse engineered wax complex sounded or was hinted at being most useful to cover all the bases. How ever reading a Wiki it seamed that all micro waxes are the same and just the mineral oil was added back in to create the various different melt points. I went along with JonB's formula as close as i could to recreate it. I must have gotten way behind in the lube articles because i didn't know of the positive qualities of paraffin wax. I always thought it should have been avoided, i thank you for that enlightenment. I have started lubing tests bullets with SL-68B and it performed great in the 30-30 and made the tightest group i have gotten yet. I haven't tried it in the other calibers because i want to finish shooting off all the Bens Red, but i am thinking it may be the reason i was getting those random flyers. However that is mere speculation and may be the reloader and the jerk only testing and confirmation will either confirm or deny. I look forward to testing all these out and cooking up a batch of the SL-71B. For riffles the goal is to create a lube that wont purge or degrade accuracy during the summer and will put a bullet within 1 MOA of point of aim in the winter on a cold barrel that hasn't been shot recently.
So my experience and knowledge is limited and what i do know is mostly just parroted from what you all have already said. However i have tried to put what i read to practical use and this is what i have learned. Everything has a practical use, just have to learn when to use it. When you say high temperature paraffin, does that refer to a specific paraffin or will any paraffin work? Gulf wax is the easiest and cheapest to get my hands on and i am not sure if its 140*.
I am not good at writing either. I tend to have idea and word vomit. So bare with my poor grammar made worse by a high stress job fueled with dark coffee that has 8 times the normal caffeine content. I also cast and reload for the following caliber: .380 ACP, 9mm Luger, .357 Mag, 6.5 Grendel, .260 Remington, .270 Win, 30-30, 50 Cal Muzzle Loader, and 12 Gauge.
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