wood Lathe

[JonB]

I made my first Handle today. Made with a chunk of 3 yr seasoned firewood (Kentucky Coffee tree, it's a hard brittle wood with a nice Orange color). NOTE to self: I understand green wood is easier to turn than old dry firewood..and I confirmed that today.
I was kinda planning to make the butt end larger than the ferrel end, but I made a bad gouge I had to 'work out' so the butt end is actually a little smaller. The Cu ferrel isn't a real good fit, but with some epoxy, no one will know but me I have no idea if I'll like this shape for using a metal file? I'll have to try it and make a decision then. I applied one coat of Waterlox sealer/finish...It's got some tung oil in it, I guess? I've never used the stuff before, I got a Quart at the County's Household Hazardous Waste distribution site for free, so thought I'd try it. Should be fine for a Handle anyway.

 

[Ian]

Nice. Now that it froze up good here and iced the ground I can"t even walk out to my wood storage truck without busting my butt.

 

[JonB]

Ian, again, no hurry.
I'm still figuring how to setup the belt sander stuff.
While carrying in some firewood, I seen this one perfectly split square piece with no cracks, so I just had to try turning it...and I had sharpened a couple tools previously. It's still below zero ...if it were 35 or so, I'd be getting the table saw out of the shed. My Book of Faces "memory post" was me driving my scooter on this day in 2017...so it must have been at least 50 that day. OK, I give, I'm tired of this cold weather and want the nice warm 50º summer air please

 

[JonB]

I mounted the hand belt sander yesterday.
Lots of stuff in my garage, so it's kind of difficult to make out the setup


This photo shows the height I guessed would be optimal, and it truly was
the best height...worked out well...Just needs a better light mounted somewhere.
Also, it does throw some metal dust and abrasive particles from the belt, up into
the air and in my face...that's probably some bad stuff for the lungs?


I made this tiny parting tool with a old dull 1/4" drill bit.
This is bottom view, showing the bevel below the cutting edge, the hardest
part to grind the form. The top side (not shown) of the cutting area is flat.


I cleaned off enough of the work bench for the little 1x30 belt sander to fine
tune the cutting edge of the Lathe Chisels and to stack all the best sized
pieces of Kentucky coffee tree firewood that I pulled off the wood pile.
I should be able to get a dozen nice handles from those, I hope?

 

[JonB]

I turned some more handles yesterday, fourth time I've used the Lathe.
Another chunk of Kentucky Coffee tree wood, a chunk of Oak (from a old shovel handle), Yellow Poplar, Cherry (from Ian).

First I should say, thanks again Ian...That cherry wood turns soooo nice, instead of chips, I get ribbons of wood.

The Oak I turned today has been a shovel handle for decades...that was the worst turning stuff...But the handles didn't turn out to bad...But it dulled the tools mighty quick.

The Yellow Poplar was very green. I started turning that piece a week ago, and left it in the lathe to finish...in that week, it not only shrunk, if warped too. It is way to large for a typical handle and I can't turn it anymore due to warpage, but I do have a couple extra large/long files that might be fine with a over size handle?

I watched the video (from Jim) a second time and picked up a few more tricks regarding tooling and mounting wood to the lathe. I also recognized a problem with my "sitting" technique and how to use and move the typical long handled tools, before I get too much more into this, I should make the decision to raise the lathe so I can stand while turning, or shorten the tool handles so I can better use them while "sitting".

I had the goal of turning several pieces of wood yesterday. I guess that was a mistake, none of them turned out as nice as the first couple I made and posted a picture of. I spend a 3+ hours on the first couple. Yesterday, I spend about 3 hours turning 7 handles and while they will work as file handles, and look better than my old method (before lathe) of just cutting up a broom handle and deburring it, these I turned yesterday just don't look as nice as I would hope...I did try a few different shapes as I am figuring I am trying to find the most comfortable design and another problem is figuring out which tool to make which cut. The Video Jim gave me helps a lot, but it sure would be better to have someone here (in person) mentoring me, and make corrections in REAL time. Oh well. I'll let that sit for a while, while I put some finish on the handles, and get them mounted and then file some stuff...before I turn more handles.

 

[KeithB]

Looking good Jon. you sound like you’re having fun!

FWIW - I sit down 99% of the time while running a metal lathe and mill, whether manual or CNC. If I had to stand for very long to run one of them my machining career would be over.

 

[burbank.jung]

I don't own a wood lathe - yet. I was thinking of a using a wood lathe to make a dowel that would fit just snug enough to fit in a two cavity Lee mold. Of course, a 6 cavity hollow point mold would be nicer. Since the point on the lathe is at the center of the dowel, I could use that to line up a drill on a drill press. Securing the mold onto a drill press table, I can drill a very close to center hollow point. Then, I could use the same drill, reverse it, and insert that into a wooden knob selling at the local hardware store and adjust the depth.

 

[JonB]

Burbank,
With all due respect, I am not following you...but then again, I am a bit of a hamfisted fella, so whenever I have gotten a bullet mold near a drill press, I end up with scrap metal, LOL.

With that said, I have read Ben's thread a dozen times, about using a 6 fluted reamer, to convert a mold with a gas check shank, into a plain base mold (I even have a $11 reamer Bookmarked and in-cue for internet purchase). I have this Lee six cavity C358-158-SWC that is just pleading with me to buy a reamer, to make it a Plain base mold, BUT... while I hate putting GC's on bullets to be loaded for 357 Mag, I hate the idea of wrecking a Lee mold even more, LOL.

 

[Ian]

I think he's talking about making a wooden drill bushing to center the drill for the HP spud.

 

[JonB]

Looking good Jon. you sound like you’re having fun!

FWIW - I sit down 99% of the time while running a metal lathe and mill, whether manual or CNC. If I had to stand for very long to run one of them my machining career would be over.

That is also my thoughts...not wanting to stand to long periods of time.
But, the reason for the long handles on wood Lathe cutting tools, is to use the whole body for tool control. The idea (as I've learned) is for one hand to hold the steel part of the tool to the tool rest, and the other hand near the front of the wooden handle, while the back end of the handle is wedged between the elbow and the your body. Then body movements move the tool smoothly for smooth cuts and also absorb any chatter to eliminate that.

With that said, for now, I am making small cuts on small things, and doing so slowing, I shouldn't need all that support? or maybe I do? I have noticed it sure does help when roughing out a piece of firewood into a round shape. But when shaping curves, the long handles get in the way, if I am operating the lathe while sitting down, as I am not able to move my body in such motion. Cutting the handles shorter would allow me to move the tool without moving my body. I will not have the added control of using the body, and that may or may not be a factor. I just hate the idea of cutting off good handles, only to find that it will be a mistake in the long run.

Of course, I don't need to cut all the handles short, Just the one I need to shape the desired contour, which I haven't figured out yet. As you can see, I am thinking and rethinking all this as I type, LOL.

OK, that's enough pontificating for today

 

[JonB]

I think I posted in the "waht ya doing today" thread last Spring, that I turned 6 or 7 more handles (in one sitting) and I wasn't happy with how they turned out. I honestly did mean to post photos, just forgot, I guess?
I think I just went too fast, trying to make a bunch in one sitting. Also, I globbed on too much gloss Poly-varnish on the Black Cherry ones and got major runs. That Black Cherry wood is some awesomely nice stuff to turn, if cuts like cheese compared to the other hardwood shown.

As to design, I like the feel of the hourglass shape the best, so this fall, when I start turning again, I'll be concentrating on that. I also learned from this session of 7 handles, that I need to slow myself down and not try to crank out a bunch, I believe that was my mistake that day.

Also, the two hourglass light colored handles in the middle are from a real old chunk of shovel handle (white Oak probably?)...that wood was extremely dry and was a bear to turn, it did more tearing than cutting and also dulled the tooling quickly. While using that shovel handle was a neat idea, I doubt I'll do that again...unless I soak the wood in linseed oil or something to make it easier to cut

I have cut several mini slabs of several different types of firewood logs for turning, so I should get a good education this fall.
(Ash, Maple, Yellow poplar, spruce, and that Locust looking thing that had the heartwood and bark like black cherry...there is also some orange/red colored wood logs that had bark like a crabapple (never posted photos of that one). Mostly I slabbed the crotch out, except the Ash, I slabbed the outside edge of the base, that area always has wavy grain.

 

[Ian]

Shovel handles are typically made from ash which has long, straight, tough grain. If I was trying to turn ash I'd try using a belt sander. They all look good to me, what are going to use for ferrules?

By the way, the most fabulous wood for turning IMO is Texas Madrone. It's very rare and endangered but sometimes turns black and dies without explanation and trimmed limbs or entire dead trees can sometime be harvested.

 

[JonB]

the first couple handles I did, I put copper pipe on for ferrules and that was a long process, so when I did these 7, in the batch, I decided to forgo ferrules...of course I am rethinking that for future handles. getting some use of these 7 will tell me if ferrules are needed. Many files in my collection are small, so those won't apply much pressure to the wood.

 

[Ian]

Unless you're working them hard or get "western" when driving them on the tangs, you don't really need ferrules.

Here's what I'd do if I had more time (have done a couple in the past this way): buy or scrounge hard copper pipe caps in 3/4 and 1" sizes, center punch and drill 3/8" holes in the ends and file off the burrs. Very slightly bellmouth the cups with the ball end of a ball pein hammer or other suitable object. Use calipers to measure the ID of the caps and turn your handles just a couple of blonde ones larger at the ferrule end and chamfer them (generous vee-groove on the lathe and saw off through the bottom of the groove). Hammer the handle into the ferrule until it seats fully and then crennelate around the whole mouth of the ferrule with a semi-dull cold chisel to crimp it onto the handle. If desired, polish the copper and put finish on the whole thing. Gloss varnish gives me blisters, I much prefer a few coats of hand-rubbed BLO, but it doesn't show the wood as well. Three coats of gloss wipe-on poly or 50/50 mineral spirits and brush poly with a light Scotch-brite rubdown in-between coats will make a gorgeous gloss finish. Apply it with your finger since there's no such thing as a truly lint-free rag.

 

[JonB]

that's some good advice. I like to use tung oil on some things...maybe that's what I try on the next ones.
I just looked at the can of Poly-varnish that I put on the Black Cherry handles, it is Minwax with "fast drying" on the label...I got a gallon of it at the Household Haz Waste "re-use room"...in fact I just brought home another Qt can of same stuff last week...I mention it, as that stuff was also mentioned in the "waht ya doing today" thread a day or two ago. I'll have to find another use for it, or bring it back, for someone else to re-re-use?

 

[JustJim]

I've used a lot of left-over poly varnish as a wiping finish on the lathe or for shop jugs etc. Thinned down, it works OK if appearance isn't critical.

 

[Ian]

Yep, thin it considerably and wipe on very thin coats, don't try to brush it. A torn off chunk of sponge or foam rubber works well as a disposable applicator as well as the finger.

 

[JonB]

Good news - Bad news.

The Good ...I finally fired up the lathe again, it's been many months.
The Bad ...it seems my wood dust allergy/sensitivity has become amplified.

Tuesday, I declutter/clean up the lathe area (in the house) and turn a piece of Ash firewood (not shown).
While it was green (alive) about 10 months ago, Now it is quite dry and difficult to turn, lots of chattering and jumping.
Well, it broke when I got it near the rough shape similar to the piece in the photo.
No one was hurt, but it was disappointing.
I clean up and put a coat of sanding sealer on it and will finish it by hand(maybe?) some other day.

Tuesday night and Wednesday morning, my allergies kick in. I take some Benadryl and it helps some. fyi, I wasn't
wearing a dust mask.

Thursday, allergy symptoms are gone, so I decide to turn a piece of Yellow poplar and I make sure I put a mask on.
This yellow poplar was green (alive) 10 months ago and is now quite dry and is also some difficult turning.
While yellow poplar isn't as soft as the typical poplar, I was reasonably sure it would be easier to turn, than the Ash.
NOPE, just as difficult.

In the evening and this morning, my allergies kicked again. More pills, and am rethinking this whole lathe thing.
Yes, this is setup in my house. It's in a Foyer type room of my duplex house and it has doors to keep most of the dust
out of the rest of the house, or at least I think it is?
-that's todays story.

This weekend, once my allergy symptoms disappear, I Think I will give this one more try.
I am thinking of turning a chunk of the Black Cherry I got from Ian.
Last year, when I turned a couple chunks of that, it turned like no other wood I've turned.
It was much easier than all the dried firewood I've tried so far, no dust or chunks, just ribbons.
I will wear a mask then also, and if my allergy symptoms reappear, I will be changing something, or putting the lathe in
storage, or selling it. Although I should wait until summer and attempt some turning outside, in front of the garage.

 

[Ian]

The black cherry smells better, too. Sounds like you're allergic to fine wood dust in any form. I'd move the operation outside if I were you and wear a smock and painter's head sock, dust them off outside and don't track the dust into your house. Your beard will be a problem getting good dust filtration to your face so the head sock may help give the dust mask something to seal against. Do you get allergies form sawing aged firewood?

 

[dannyd]

My dad ran a cabinet company for 50 years and we lived over the business, so I think I was 10 years old maybe when I started running the lathe. Well in the early 70's a kid asked me "can you make a pipe like this and I said sure. So for about 3 years I made bongs until a police office ask me to stop.