Are these custom!

[CWLONGSHOT]

Any one recognize this style HP?

I’m thinking custom as they drilled straight they the mold numbers. Alho
It dosent really matter I would assume a manufacturer wouldn’t deface a ID on a product unless it was required.

They are both Lyman made Single cav molds. There is no leg able numbers on the “38” mold.

No I haven’t cast with them as yet and a bit concerned of Bullet release on the 38 and stability on the 44 with such a deep HP. Darn thing is to the lube groove!!! Looks like the “38” is a “hydra shok looking” HP. I first thought it was a WC mold and maybe not custom. But now that I see better it’s same as 44. Looks like a machinist made a nice HP mold from a factory Lyman.

But many more knowledgeable guys here so here I am askin.

CW

 

[Brad]

Interesting concept for a captured pin HP mould.
That 38 has a HUGE cavity.

I would say definitely custom work. I like the concept.

 

[Rick]

About has to be custom. A cavity that deep will cause the bullet to explode when it contacts just about anything, not enough bullet left to even slightly hold together giving ya retained weight of the base band only. In addition it would be far better off with a rounded tip spud for the same reason. Were it mine it would be getting a new much shorter spud. Erik at Hollow Point could fix ya right up with that.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I’m gonna cast some and shoot and see...

I’m sure your spot on as I suspect same
When I first saw. I actually “passed” on buying couple Weeks ago. But they been on my mind to revisit. When I called they where still there so now they are mine.

We shot a lot of coyotes so if they shoot ok I’ll try them on dog vermin.
Hope to cast some this weekend. Can’t go anywhere anyhow. Its supposed to rain heavy Sunday.

CW

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Ooh Rick.
That 38 mold dosent have a “peg” of a HP pin. It’s concave inside and appears tapered to a point. That’s my worry about release.

My thought is, it’s gonna look kinda like a Federal hydra shok.

Cw

 

[fiver]

they look like the pin can be flipped over to make flat nose bullets.
I would dare say you could load two of the flat nose 38's in a 357 case.

I'd clean up that Burr on the 44's front drive band before I used it.

 

[JonB]

something Rick said, makes me think I'd cast that deep HP with straight Lino-type

 

[Ian]

something Rick said, makes me think I'd cast that deep HP with straight Lino-type

Naw, Rotometals lead-free alloy

 

[Rick]

something Rick said, makes me think I'd cast that deep HP with straight Lino-type

Naw, Rotometals lead-free alloy

 

[RBHarter]

Not to throw stones but 42_ _21 looks like 429421 looks a lot like the one I have that is relieved to .448 .

 

[Missionary]

40-1at about 750 fps would sure hurt an unwanted visitor.... especially in summer light weight covering.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I am just back from picking up the molds. Made a slight detour to get them on way home from work. SORRY SORRY, four letter word I know!! ;(

The 35 is/was a Lyman 358345. I haven’t yet looked it up but it dosent ring any bells for me.



The 44 is a 429421 as best I can tell as well. 240g Keith bullet.

Molds are real clean. I’m hoping just a brake clean blast and maybe some liberal pencil lead on the pins and I’ll be making bullets.

What would ya suggest as a alloy? Mostly my HP get 20:1. I’m thinking maybe a lil Harder here. Like 25% WW to soft lead with some tin for good measure.

How would 10:1 be?

Suggestions welcome Meltin’ is startin tomorrow AM!

CW

 

[fiver]

what are your goals IOW, what do you want the bullet to do.
target velocity?
there's a lot of ways to get stuff to work and the results can be manipulated through alloy and speed choices.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Understood, mainly Just fun or maybe Coyotes. I will send some down to VA so my buddy can shoot them into his bullet box.

Probably shoot a few water jugs too!

CW

 

[fiver]

if you want splody.
plain o'l ww's and low tin with some speed behind it, will sure make a mess of water jugs.

if you want ductility closer to pure lead [maybe some copper] and holding the speeds to around 750-800 fps will get you the closest.

your trying to shear the lead off in one scenario and trying to allow it to roll and push back on itself in the other.
lino-type seems a lot more brittle but in many cases you end up with all penetration and no breakup.
you want something more extreme without the eutectic balance and a way higher antimony to tin ratio.

 

[Hawk]

Those HP seem pretty big.
I would think you want an alloy that would be pretty malleable, so as to mushroom and not break off.
I would think powder coating would let you get away with casting a little softer.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Molds cast beautifully!

I posted up videos on my uTube account if any one wants to see.

cwlongshot

Some clips of some things I enjoy doing. Some Informative stuff too! I hope you enjoy. If ya like what ya see subscribe and click the bell. I’ll send ya a no...

www.youtube.com

CW

 

[fiver]

they do cast nice.
that's a very thin drive band on that 421,,, 241 christ,, whatever,, I can never keep that straight.

those were obviously meant to shear/fragment the nose right off on contact.

 

[david s]

Very nice that 38 wadcutter is defiantly interesting. I don't think I've seen it's like before. I still have one of the single cavity Lyman 429421 hollow point moulds. Your pin looks a quite a bit larger. Depending on what velocity your looking for (up to about 1200 fps+) a 20-1 alloy should work well.

 

[JonB]

I mentioned Lino-type, half jokingly, but half serious....thinking of the Barnes Varmint Grenades I tried loading many years ago.
I just figured that once the thin nose of that brittle Lino bullet starting breaking up, the base would follow in busting up also ...possibly acting like the Barnes Varmint Grenades were suppose to.