L1A1Rocker
Active Member
Well that sucks that they won't at least send you out a new bushing. NOT cool. If you would like, you can swing over and we can take that shoulder down a tad on the barrel.
Calling the 1911 gurus...
- Thread starter Ian
- Start date
Ian
Notorious member
Yeah, my brain knotted a little when I called the watts number for Storm Lake technical support and got "Remington customer service". Couple menu options down the line got me Storm Lake and I think Tapco together on the same option number. It was nice to talk to people who weren't complete idiots or jerks, but I'm really too far into this to turn back now. I got a bushing in my Midway cart and an email draft going to Brownell's about the reamer.
L1A1, I might take you up on that because the slide is peened a little and it needs all the bushing length it can get to prevent tilt under spring pressure, plus if we did that I could use the original bushing. I magnafluxed the slide today (best as can be done with SS) and didn't find any cracks, so that's good.
L1A1, I might take you up on that because the slide is peened a little and it needs all the bushing length it can get to prevent tilt under spring pressure, plus if we did that I could use the original bushing. I magnafluxed the slide today (best as can be done with SS) and didn't find any cracks, so that's good.
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freebullet
Guest
No cracks is great! They're pretty tough.
Having a softer regular steel bushing till your done fitting & tuning might be a good thing. If that had been tough stainless the damage could be worse.
Having a softer regular steel bushing till your done fitting & tuning might be a good thing. If that had been tough stainless the damage could be worse.
L1A1Rocker
Active Member
Ian
Notorious member
You got that right, they eat ammo like Skittles. I coated and sized another 775 bullets last night to replace the ones I loaded last weekend, and have another coated thousand standing by for loading. Only about 1100 are loaded right now, so I need to cast at least another 5K, coat, size, and load just to get ahead. Then I'll need to look at restocking primers....
L1A1Rocker
Active Member
F
freebullet
Guest
What a great friend.
Bet she's a bit less kerplunkitty now ehh?
Bet she's a bit less kerplunkitty now ehh?
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freebullet
Guest
Always a work in progress aren't they. Sounds like a really fun piece now.
Longone
Active Member
That's part of the fun of a 1911, it can be personalized and tweaked. Depending on the load and springs you can change the ejection pattern without tuning the extractor, (unless it needs it) lot's of variables.
Now that you have it running, it's time to tinker, until you get it where you want.
Enjoy.
Now that you have it running, it's time to tinker, until you get it where you want.
Enjoy.
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
Glad you figured it out. Never saw a Commander stopping on the bushing! Yikes. Makes it
easy on the frame but the bushing is really, REALLY not up to that load - as you found.
As to Freedom Group, a relative knows the owner personally and has vouched to me that he is
really a good guy.... and the relative, despite living in the NE, is a hard core gun guy. My only
point is that there have been some nasty rumors floating around that Freedom Group is somehow
going to be bad for gun rights, or gun owners, seems not to be the case. One gun guy pulling a bunch
of companies together with the intent of doing better business that way.
In any case, my first thought was to wonder whether the "magic slide booster" for the can could be
dialed back, seemed to be getting more boost than you needed. Had never seen a bushing bottoming
on the barrel lugs!
I was going to suggest you send me the bbl to knock off a bit in the lathe, pretty easy work, but you
already got it done.
Bill
easy on the frame but the bushing is really, REALLY not up to that load - as you found.
As to Freedom Group, a relative knows the owner personally and has vouched to me that he is
really a good guy.... and the relative, despite living in the NE, is a hard core gun guy. My only
point is that there have been some nasty rumors floating around that Freedom Group is somehow
going to be bad for gun rights, or gun owners, seems not to be the case. One gun guy pulling a bunch
of companies together with the intent of doing better business that way.
In any case, my first thought was to wonder whether the "magic slide booster" for the can could be
dialed back, seemed to be getting more boost than you needed. Had never seen a bushing bottoming
on the barrel lugs!
I was going to suggest you send me the bbl to knock off a bit in the lathe, pretty easy work, but you
already got it done.
Bill
Ian
Notorious member
Storm Lake evidently hasn't figured out that you can't simply thread a 4.99" Gov't barrel, put it in a package with a short Commander bushing, and make a Commander-compatible set. The other half of that problem is I didn't know what I didn't know about checking the bushing and barrel for clearance (never dreamed that I'd have to do major dimensional correction on parts involving slide stroke as part of the semi-drop-in fitment!!) but now I do.
F
freebullet
Guest
I'll have to pass on that.
Just picked up an RIA 5" gi with threaded bbl. Who knows what I'll learn from a Phillipine 1911. Hopefully it goes well.
Just picked up an RIA 5" gi with threaded bbl. Who knows what I'll learn from a Phillipine 1911.
Hopefully it goes well.
Ian
Notorious member
I shot one of those RIA 1911s a few years ago and was pretty impressed with it. It was loose as a goose, but slick, smooth, very accurate, and 100% reliable. All you need now is a little something to go on the end of it...
I've mentioned this before but it deserves reiterating: If you want a suppressed .45 ACP handgun, there are only two worth messing with. One is a 1911, the other is the FN FNH. Glocks and S&W M&Ps have a lot more port noise, blow tons of filth back into the magazines, action, and shooter, and are generally not fun. Maybe that could be helped with tuning, but I doubt you will ever get either of those platforms to perform as well as a stock 1911. Even my Commander is a LOT more quiet than my 5" M&P, and after 250 rounds my 1911 hasn't required any cleaning whatsoever including the magazines, and most of that shooting has been done "wet". My M&P gets so globbered up that the magazines start jamming after one box. Glocks are more reliable with dirty magazines, but those I know who have them and shoot suppressed complain about the "ink bath" from shooting wet. No, it doesn't matter what silencer is used, pretty much all the same results even with a wipe can.
I've mentioned this before but it deserves reiterating: If you want a suppressed .45 ACP handgun, there are only two worth messing with. One is a 1911, the other is the FN FNH. Glocks and S&W M&Ps have a lot more port noise, blow tons of filth back into the magazines, action, and shooter, and are generally not fun. Maybe that could be helped with tuning, but I doubt you will ever get either of those platforms to perform as well as a stock 1911. Even my Commander is a LOT more quiet than my 5" M&P, and after 250 rounds my 1911 hasn't required any cleaning whatsoever including the magazines, and most of that shooting has been done "wet". My M&P gets so globbered up that the magazines start jamming after one box. Glocks are more reliable with dirty magazines, but those I know who have them and shoot suppressed complain about the "ink bath" from shooting wet. No, it doesn't matter what silencer is used, pretty much all the same results even with a wipe can.
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Pistolero
Well-Known Member
"Semi-drop in"...you drop it in and then run over it with a semi? The dinks in the brass
mean you need to lower the bottom of the ejection port, although beveling the inside
of the bottom at 45 deg will help, but really it needs to be dropped about 0.1" or 0.125",
basically until the dents go away.
Going to get a threaded bbl for a Ruger SR1911 once I get the paperwork on my Tyrant45.
I wish it were easier to get high sights for 1911s to clear a can.
Bill
mean you need to lower the bottom of the ejection port, although beveling the inside
of the bottom at 45 deg will help, but really it needs to be dropped about 0.1" or 0.125",
basically until the dents go away.
Going to get a threaded bbl for a Ruger SR1911 once I get the paperwork on my Tyrant45.
I wish it were easier to get high sights for 1911s to clear a can.
Bill