It's basically a civvy M4 clone on a budget. I was gifted the lower for Christmas. Built the lower out on my own and bought a BCA 16" 1:9 fully assembled upper from Palmetto to finish the rifle. After a few months I swapped out the carrying handle for an inexpensive 2.5-10x scope.
We may have run in to a couple possible BINGO situations.
1. Nothing wrong with budget, but you'll need to verify that scope is holding a zero. If she ain't holding, bingo, need to remedy that. Could switch back to the carry handle & try off a solid rest @25-50yds.
2. If it is holding zero your barrel is junk. Don't feel bad, prolly ain't yer fault. I've had a few psa barrels, & none were performers without work, & two of them never would shoot well.
Swapping an ar barrel isn't difficult. An hbar from dpms or other reasonable quality manufactures can be had for under 150$. Smooth it with a few hundred jax, then cast should do ok.
Do dry fire practice, alot. You can only lie to yourself during dry fire. If the gun moves when you press the trigger keep practicing.
I wouldn't give up on it. Even if ya need to save for that barrel you'll be very much ahead in the long run working this out. Now is not the time to sell an ar. That time is when the markets turns volatile & prices are up. Now is the time to be building them/collecting parts.
Should be able to find an axis for about 200$, so don't pay 280. They have wobbly stock syndrome from the start anyway.
Try holding the trigger back until the gun has fully recovered from recoil. Trigger follow thru is something I see a lot of newbies struggle with. During dry fire, hold the trigger back until you've cocked the bolt, practicing the trigger reset is just as important.
IIRC it's the hammer that breaks in SOME
If the upper ain't on or bcg ain't in, yep, could break the hammer or lower between the fcg pocket & magwell. A fully assembled ar should not be damaged at all, ever, by dry fire. T'was ready to fail already, otherwise.