Why powder coating my .45-70 cast bullets might not ever make precise long distance ammunition

I have been struggling with limited success trying to develop a (smokeless) load for my Pedersoli .45-70 caliber Sharps replica rifle using powder coated bullets. The best 5-shot groups I have been able to fire at my test distance of 150 meters = 164 yards have been stalled at about 0.8 MOA (fired with visual help from a Leatherwood Hi-Lux Malcolm full barrel-length scope) , and have been only inconsistently attainable.

I THINK I finally know why, and why the outlook is not good for improving that.

I decided a couple of weeks ago that I really needed to do some very detailed shooting, recording, measuring, anf analasys and figure out once and for all what is wrong.

After doing several weeks of loading, test firing, and analysis, I have realized, looking at the hard data, that my newbie casting skills, coupled with certain statistical, geometric, and mathematical realities, make it pretty unlikely that I can ever get the consistent powder coated ammunition cartridges needed to get consistent sub-MOA 5-shot groups at long distances with the Pedersoli 45-70.

I know for certain that it is NOT inadequate load selection and/or handloading technique shortfalls, as my SDs are reliably single digit.

After doing all that loading, test firing, and analysis, I have been able to summarize all my findings in this one rather disappointing table:

Lee 459 500 3R bullet - Raw and Powder Coated handloaded measurement statistics - 1.jpeg

Don’t get too worked up about the implied precision of the data shown. I have tried to use best statistical practices (e.g. adequate sample sizes, using Mitutoyo calipers and micrometer, appropriate number of REAL decimal places despite “displayed” decimal places, etc), but as I am sure you know, the REAL maximum precision of even great digital calipers is measured in thousandths not ten thousandths, and the maximum precision of even great digital micrometers is measured in ten-thousandths, not any finer. But the obvious relative magnitudes of the variances highlighted in the table in red (“bad news”) and green (“good news”) is what you should focus on.

Note immediately that the incidence of red bad news greatly outnumbers the incidence of green good news. There are only 2 areas in which there is helpful good news, and 5 areas in which there is a lot of bad news. Let’s do the painful analysis:

In all the following discussions, “Raw” means the bullets that are UNcoated. “PC” means the bullets that have been powder coated.


Bullet Weight:

The standard deviation in the weight of my cast bullets is more than adequate, being 1.4 grains for both raw and PC bullets. That SD is just 0.29% of the average weight.

But the worst variances, from lightest to heaviest individual bullets, is not encouraging, being about 1.2%, or roughly 4 times the SD, and hitting 5.8 grains. That’s not awful, as I have found that commercial machine cast bullets, when measured on scales of adequate precision, typically vary at worst by about 0.9% to 1.0%. But, it shows that my newbie casting skill sets are certainly not impressive, at least yet, and quantifiably worse than commercial machine made bullets. That’s disappointing. But, it is not a significant issue compared to the dimensional variances the table exposes.

Note that the average weight of powder coat added to each bullet is about 1.3 grains. Separately, note that the average calculated statistical gain in diameter due to the powder coating is .00195”, or more realistically about .002”. Since the THICKNESS gain is half of the diameter gain, the thickness of the powder is about .001”.

This is relatively excellent, showing that my technique of agitating the raw bullets inside a No.5 plastic (important!) container, along with the Eastwood Gloss Jet Black powder AND black airsoft BBs, is generating proper electrostatic bonding of the powder to the raw bullets. Eastwood regards .001” to .002” powder thickness as being typical and ideal. And we bullet coaters know that the less we change the geometry of the bullets via powder coating by making the ogive “fatter” the less issues we will have with the bullet’s shape that a designer smarter than us has designed.

Finally, yes the Lee 459 500 3R mold that produced these bullets is supposed to cast bullets that are “nominally” .459” diameter, and weigh 500 grains, but of course that is with ONE specific Lead alloy that Lee has assumed as a standard. Every shooter’s choice of both alloy and sizer is going to automatically cause chnages in the weight and dismeter. The key is to get as much CONSISTENCY as possible in both weight and diameter.

My bullet weight consistency is far from excellent, but it is not, by far, the biggest factor to remediate to get better accuracy. Dimensional variances discussed below are by far way more urgent to correct.


Bullet Diameter:

Here’s the first area where powder coating introduces an important variance.

Note that the standard deviation in bullet diameter more than doubles for PC bullets versus raw, from .0009” for raw to .0021” for PC. And, the WORST variances MORE than double, going from .0034” raw to .0076” PC! This is likely due to the worst raw casting diameter variance COMBINING with the worst PC thickness variances (despite the wonderful PC AVERAGE thickness) to create the smallest and largest variant diameters.

Fortunately, the later sizing process corrects this inconsistency in diameter - at a cost.

The sizing process actually does reduce the variance in bullet diameter simply by forcing each bullet through the sizing die. This process “squeezes” the bullet diameter while I apply force to the loading press handle while sliding the bullet upward through the sizing die.

The raw bullet diameters have a worst diameter variance of .0013”. The PC bullet diameters have a worst diameter variance of just .0004” (and remember that we are realistically at the practical limits of even a Mitutoyo micrometer, so don’t take this number too literally). So the worst variance improves from 0.3% to 0.1% when sizing PC versus raw bullets.

But, there is a cost. The lead that is being squeezed out of the diameter has to go somewhere. Some of it probably goes into distorting the lube grooves in the shank, and since the bullet base is being pushed by a male die insert in the loading press’s caseholder while the bullet is being squeezed, the ogive gets pushed upward too. In fact, if you look at the table entries you see that the bullet length after sizing, for both raw and PC bullets, grows notably. The raw bullets grow by .004” average, while the PC bullets grow by .015”! And the extreme spread grows from 0.5% as cast, to 0.8% for raw sized, and to 1.0% for PC sized! So, yes, sizing of the bullets does alter their length, and therefor their ogive length and shape, and the alteration is larger, AND more variable, for PC bullets. This alters the shape and length that the bullet designer wanted. And it alters the shape and length inconsistently and unpredictably. This has serious consequences for BTO.


Base to Ogive (“BTO”):

THIS is the biggest problem.

The text above the actual table explains what I was measuring, and why, when I measured BTO on both the raw bullets and the PC bullets, both before and after sizing, via a Lee passthrough .459” sizing die. I chose the .459” sizing insert because experimental shooting with .460”, .459” and .458” sizing seemed to show that the rifle prefers .459” diameter bullet shanks.

The geometric realities of the bullet I am using, and actually probably the geometric realities of almost ANY bullet, are harsh. Here is a photo of the bullet, showing it both raw and powder coated:

Lee 459 500 3R bullet shape  - Raw and Powder Coated - 1.jpeg

The ogive has a diameter of .452” right above the frontmost driving band. By the time you get to the tip of the ogive, the radius is pretty close to zero. The ogive length is roughly 0.73”. So, the “average slope” of the ogive gives a diameter change of .452” / 0.73” = .619” per inch, or .619”/1000 = .000619” per thousandth inch change in BTO!

Now, this rate of radius change changes as you climb the ogive because the ogive is curved, not straight, but I think you can get the point that a relatively small change in BTO will create a disastrously large change in diameter, which will dramatically change the point at which the bullet ogive encounters either the throat wall, or rifling, or both.

You can see in the table that BTO varies on my sized powder coated bullets by .0310” versus .0135” for my sized raw bullets. That’s 2.3 times worse variance on the powder coated bullets versus the raw bullets! That is going to hurt accuracy a LOT.

How MUCH variance in ogive diameter clearance in the throat and rifling does the BTO variance cause? A LOT. We are talking after all about a 3.7% variance in BTO. That .031” variance in BTO will change the diameter of the bullet at that point by:

.031” x (.619 inch of diameter per inch of BTO movement) = .019” !

Think about that. One bullet can be as much as .019” larger or smaller in diameter than another bullet, when sitting at the “apparently same” gage-checked BTO! And, remember, the slope of the ogive is constantly changing, not fixed, so the effects of powder coat thickness variance will be impossible to plan for in my corrective BTO settings when loading.

No wonder I cannot get consistent and small 5-shot groups.

I currently see no apparent remedy for the BTO variance.


Why losing the ability to powder coat disappoints me:

Different shooters have different reasons for wanting and using powder coating versus conventional bullet lubricants. I personally value powder coating versus conventional bullet lubricants very highly because:

  • I like the lack of sticky mess
  • I like how clean powder coated bullets leave my rifle barrel after a range session
  • I like being able to shoot at higher velocities without barrel leading

I need the higher velocity on the Pedersoli Sharps replica because:
  • The normal 45-70 trajectory is a little much to manage for the 600 meter distance I want to be able to shoot
  • The windage adjustments of the normal 45-70 1100 to 1300 fps velocities are a little much to calculate and manage in a timed session
  • The normal 45-70 velocity range is right on top of the transonic velocity range, and transonic effects can be difficult to predict and manage
  • It would be nice to have a lighter bullet traveling at a higher speed, as an alternate load for when I don’t want the heavy 500g bullet class 45-70 recoil

If I cannot find, or be given, reasonably workable solutions for the above powder coated bullet issues:

My next probable step will be to simply try the existing load (with its single digit SDs) with bullets lubricated by Lee’s Alex Bullet Lube, which I bought a bottle of recently as a Plan B to try. I am not looking forward to that.

Squirting an unknown amoiunt of Alox into a pan of 484g bullets, and then potentially damaging the heavy BHN 16 bullets by rolling them around to coat them haphazradly with Alox (which apparently is “clear” in appearance and therefor hard to assess its actual coverage), seems pretty lame. Leaving them to dry overnight is unattractive, and once they have dried, I presume that means that some of them will be stuck to either the pan or each other, and have to be separated. That would be like going from the future to a literally sticky past.

As for lubes that need to be injected into the bullet grooves, I have zero interest in that as well. At least Alox offers the potential for applying a layer of lubricant to at least most of the bullet, whereas the groove lubricants depend upon migration from the grooves onto the outer shank surfaces, which would seem to limit their potential successful velocity ranges.

If Alox does not work well for me, and at high enough velocities, I think I’d rather simply switch to metal jacketed bullets, and at least be able to then shoot supersonically to even the 600 meter mark, which would enable me to use my about-to-be delivered Shotmarker electronic target system, which depends upon the projectile being supersonic to be able to detect it. That would certainly beat having to use a gong target in order to eliminate the need to walk 600x2 = 1200 meters = 1300 yards = 13 minutes each time I want to check or change my target.

I’d really like to make the powder coating work for precision accuracy, but right now, after months of trying, I don’t see how I can.

Jim G
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Wow, that's a hell of a post and analysis !
.
I read through the whole thing, but will be honest, it was a little deeper than I could digest.
Let me comment on something I know nothing about, LOL ...and that's PC, ...BUT since that is the heart of this analysis, I feel compelled.
Note that the standard deviation in bullet diameter more than doubles for PC bullets versus raw, from .0009” for raw to .0021” for PC. And, the WORST variances MORE than double, going from .0034” raw to .0076” PC! This is likely due to the worst raw casting diameter variance COMBINING with the worst PC thickness variances (despite the wonderful PC AVERAGE thickness) to create the smallest and largest variant diameters.
I was gonna mention something, when you first started commenting on our forum, but hesitated, as I been flamed before for "assuming" the ability of newbies.
.
Now I've never worked with PC, But shouldn't it be more uniform? ...and thinner, like 0.001" ?
You are mentioning some thicknesses that seem WAY TO THICK.
Maybe you need to figure out a better technique to apply/bake your PC? maybe switch from PC, to Hitek coating?
.
Another thought:
Have you measured your unsized uncoated bullets in more than one spot?
Mostly, measuring on each side of the parting line.
Lee molds, and other "mass production" molds are rarely perfectly aligned...in fact I find that if a Lee is only 0.001" misaligned, I am happy. Those are fine for shooting 100 yds...But I can't imagine that'd be good for 600 meters? You want a near perfect bullet before you start sizing/coating.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
You have a big field of exploration open in front of you. Just because you like the PC doesn't mean your gun will. Honestly, forget the Lee Liquid Alox and try some good "sticky/messy" 50/50 alox beeswax and hand lube a few. And just for kicks- stop sizing your bullets down to .45 whatever ans see if they will chamber as cast. If they will, try shooting some. And use a softer aloy than this stuff of 21 Bhn you've been tryng.
 

JustJim

Well-Known Member
My first thought is that there is too much variation in your (raw) bullet weight. With some time and a hefty dose of OCD, you should be able to get that down to plus-or-minus .5 grains. I'm with Fiver on the description--looks like not enough heat, and maybe clean the pot and flux the bejeebers out of your alloy before casting. One way or another, if you can get the variation down at the beginning (raw) stage, it will help eliminate some of the variables later.

Second thought is that you're worrying too much about damaging bullets with "tumble" lubing. I've used it with 220+ grain .310" bullets (long, thin, and softer lead than you are using) and shot 10-shot groups at 100 yards from the bench that were ~1.25" (peep sights on a Krag are a wonderful thing). If rolling the bullets around in a tub bothers you (it did me at first) you can put a shot of lube in a ziplock bag and do the bullets one at a time. (I was never able to show a difference doing them this way, but my inner-obsessive was sure they had to be better than bullets bounced around against each other.)

Maybe pick an alloy as a starting point. Cast a few in each of your moulds. Pick whichever one best fits the throat of your rifle in that alloy, and put the other moulds back on your shelf for now. Use that mould to work on your casting technique, and to work out what works best for the mould. Once you get the variation down to about plus or minus 1 grain, do the powder coat thing and check your variation again (and the fit of the bullet to the rifle). Then start working on the actual load, particularly the charge and OAL.

FWIW, I'm shooting Lee 405 hollow base bullets in my trapdoor, cast 30:1. Weight range is usually plus-or-minus .5 gr. I shoot them pan lubed, unsized (they chamber fine in the trapdoor, and in a Pedersoli belonging to an acquaintance).
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I have a lube that shouldn't, but , does hold up to 2600 fps in a 222 . 2000 isn't any trouble at all with light bullets in the 45-70 .
The lube is effectively only there to keep the lead from sticking to the steel. It is also serves as basically an o ring fluid seal where the lead can't or stops swaging or swelling.
Deep physics level stuff I understand but can't explain in really correct terms.

Stupid things that get over looked as you've worked the bullet to death.

Matching cases ;
Volume
Trim length
Anneal state
Crimp
Neck tension as a secondary product of mouth expansion not related to annealing or sizing..
How long is the neck formed ?

How much are you sizing .
I've owned 3 rifles that had significantly better groups when I left the bodies unsized .
One of those demanded the whole body be unsized from fire form or the head and a portion of the neck.
The other 2 would allow FL and factory to literally rattle in the chamber so leaving the body fat saved case working and closed the wiggle room. . It helped case alignment wit the bore .

I'm sure you've looked at both ends of the barrel for the leade , throat , and chamber alignment as well as the crown and barrel affects.

While these items seem possibly excessive any one of them might be a coincidence fix or a big step forward.

This will read more harshly than it really is but it's a fact of life .
You can only shoot as small as you can see regardless of what the rifle and load are capable of shooting.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Welcome Jim,

Wow quite the post. First of all in my experience expecting sub MOA accuracy as a standard is well, a tall order to fill. I find it to be difficult to attain with several traditional bolt actioned wood stocked rifles using jacketed bullets without some tweaks. Bedding, barrel floating, trigger work, good optics, and accompanying mounts. Composite stocks, pillar bedding, modern jacketed bullets, decent triggers, and excellent optics make that goal much easier to attain and thus we are spoiled. Especially when anyone with a keyboard can shoot sub MOA, "When they do their part."

You are trying to do this with a replica of a rifle using an ignition system that was created in the American Civil War. An enormously large hammer, swinging through an arc that can be measured in inches. The lock time while not glacial, is best described as "slow." BPCR silhouette shooters that are serious about competition don't use side hammer Sharps rifles. They use something like an 1885 Winchester with a shorter, lighter, faster hammer fall. Then there is the two piece stock, never lauded as an adjunct to fine, precise shooting. Much money gets spent modifying 1885 butt stocks with the Meacham through bolt system to try and tighten the junction of wrist and tang. And the fit of forearm to action to barrel can cause issues.
Lastly, the Malcolm-Leatherwood full length scope. Not exactly a target grade outfit to begin with and I have had at least 4 Malcolm-Leatherwood scopes and the mounts and bases have ranged from crude to nearly Chinese unusable. The accuracy you have gotten as described early in your post was frankly astounding operating under the handicaps you are.

Lastly there is the possibility that a conclave of old buffalo hunters, languishing in the hereafter drinking Taos Lightning and spittin' tabacky juice, have noticed your historical transgressions. Your blasphemous lack of adherence to tradition may have doomed your efforts from the outset.
 

Missionary

Well-Known Member
Howdy Jim and welcome to this fine place. That is a very detailed post.
I will need to re-read your post several times to digest all you went through. I have not viewed 45-70 at all as a round I need to try PC with.
When we shoot our two Rollers that are our long range poppers we only have 300 yards and a 400-485 with 3F Goex of cross sticks gives us very enjoyable results. But then we are looking for sub-MOA with smokeless.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member

Referring to your excellent post, use this link and read chapters 4 and 5 (fluxing and lubrication).

I read your post and then scanned back over it and didn't see where you mentioned what alloy you're using, you did mention 16 BHN. When shooting long range groups, you want the alloy all from the same lot. Variations in alloy and in alloy BHN will open up groups.

As to the appearance of your bullets, see the chapter on fluxing.

Variation in weights can be minimized with the deep dark secret of bullet casting. Mold temperature. Nope, I did not say pot temp but mold temperature. Do not crank up the heat on the pot, 700 degrees is plenty for Pb/Sb/Sn alloys. Mold temp is a learned trait, you'll know when it's right, the trick then is to learn to keep it there with your casting rhythm. Weight variation will be minimal, and bullets will fall from the mold easily.

Don't compare your bullets with commercial machine cast bullets, you can do far better.
 
Either use a gas check mould and check or a sturdy card wad under the bullet.

I don't think a ghas check will help, Ian. There is already no "blowby" past the bullet shanks. I get NO leading. The problem I have uncovered is inconsistent and unpredictable distortion of the bullet's shape and the resulting BTO variances caused by that.

Jim G
 
Now I've never worked with PC, But shouldn't it be more uniform? ...and thinner, like 0.001" ?
You are mentioning some thicknesses that seem WAY TO THICK.
Maybe you need to figure out a better technique to apply/bake your PC? maybe switch from PC, to Hitek coating?
.
Another thought:
Have you measured your unsized uncoated bullets in more than one spot?
Mostly, measuring on each side of the parting line.
Lee molds, and other "mass production" molds are rarely perfectly aligned...in fact I find that if a Lee is only 0.001" misaligned, I am happy. Those are fine for shooting 100 yds...But I can't imagine that'd be good for 600 meters? You want a near perfect bullet before you start sizing/coating.

The powder coating ios NOT too thick. I have shown in my posting that it is only about .001" thick on average. BUT, apparently even the small variations in that thin thickness are enough to cause magnified effects on BTO, because of the shape of a typical bullet ogive.

Changing the application method to electrostatic spraying would make the problem worse, as it is impossible to spray uniformly thick powder coats on every bullet without spraying them INDIVIDUALLY, for a precise consistent period of spraying duration, while the bullet is being rotated on a turntable. That would take hours, waste a lot of powder, and be basically not practical.

The cast bullets do indeed exhibit some concentricity vairances as CAST, but the sizing process seems to eliminate that.

As for magnified effects at longer ranges, hey, I am still at SHORT rnage here (only 150 meters = 164 yards) and am ALREADY getting inconsistent groups!

Jim G
 
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You have a big field of exploration open in front of you. Just because you like the PC doesn't mean your gun will. Honestly, forget the Lee Liquid Alox and try some good "sticky/messy" 50/50 alox beeswax and hand lube a few. And just for kicks- stop sizing your bullets down to .45 whatever ans see if they will chamber as cast. If they will, try shooting some. And use a softer aloy than this stuff of 21 Bhn you've been tryng.
I hjave fired these bullets at .458", .459", and .460" in a barrel whose groove diameter is .4563". That means I have covered .0017" to .0037" of bullet to groove interference. That is plenty of range to have tried don't you think? No way would I wnat to try more than .0037" of interference fit!

And although I TRAGETED getting BHN = 21 with one alloy batch, depsite careful verified calculation and actual preparation, that batch never got anywhere near BHN = 21. It got to BHN = 16 very quickly (within hours), but STAYED there, even as recently as 3 weeks after being cast. I have been checking the hardness with my Lee Hardness Tool regularly, and it has not changed from BHN = 16. 16 should not be too hard for a 28,000 psi load.

Jim G
 
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waco

Springfield, Oregon
Try keeping the powder coat off of the nose/ogive of the bullet.
 
mmm looks like too much tin, and not quite enough heat to me from the picture.
The tin content was 2%, which is apparently suppsoed to be pretty ideal. As for heat, the Lyman Mag 25 was maintaining exactly 720 degree F, and the bullets were not wrinkling nor frosting. What would you suggest I change?

Jim G
 
My first thought is that there is too much variation in your (raw) bullet weight. With some time and a hefty dose of OCD, you should be able to get that down to plus-or-minus .5 grains. I'm with Fiver on the description--looks like not enough heat, and maybe clean the pot and flux the bejeebers out of your alloy before casting. One way or another, if you can get the variation down at the beginning (raw) stage, it will help eliminate some of the variables later.

Second thought is that you're worrying too much about damaging bullets with "tumble" lubing. I've used it with 220+ grain .310" bullets (long, thin, and softer lead than you are using) and shot 10-shot groups at 100 yards from the bench that were ~1.25" (peep sights on a Krag are a wonderful thing). If rolling the bullets around in a tub bothers you (it did me at first) you can put a shot of lube in a ziplock bag and do the bullets one at a time. (I was never able to show a difference doing them this way, but my inner-obsessive was sure they had to be better than bullets bounced around against each other.)

Maybe pick an alloy as a starting point. Cast a few in each of your moulds. Pick whichever one best fits the throat of your rifle in that alloy, and put the other moulds back on your shelf for now. Use that mould to work on your casting technique, and to work out what works best for the mould. Once you get the variation down to about plus or minus 1 grain, do the powder coat thing and check your variation again (and the fit of the bullet to the rifle). Then start working on the actual load, particularly the charge and OAL.

FWIW, I'm shooting Lee 405 hollow base bullets in my trapdoor, cast 30:1. Weight range is usually plus-or-minus .5 gr. I shoot them pan lubed, unsized (they chamber fine in the trapdoor, and in a Pedersoli belonging to an acquaintance).

I realize my casting is still pretty inexperienced. Only more castijg time and experience will change that. The pot is kept scrupulously clean and I flux very thoroughly using sawdust.

I like your ziplock bag suggestion. But, how MUCH is a "shot" of lube?? Even Lee uses that same sort of "unit of measurement". Being a retired engineer with normal engineering OCD, I need something more specific. Also, with the bag technique, don't the last bullets coated getting a more sparse coating than the first bullets coated? How do you ensure the same amount of lube on every bullet??

Jim G
 
I have a lube that shouldn't, but , does hold up to 2600 fps in a 222 . 2000 isn't any trouble at all with light bullets in the 45-70 .
The lube is effectively only there to keep the lead from sticking to the steel. It is also serves as basically an o ring fluid seal where the lead can't or stops swaging or swelling.
Deep physics level stuff I understand but can't explain in really correct terms.

Stupid things that get over looked as you've worked the bullet to death.

Matching cases ;
Volume
Trim length
Anneal state
Crimp
Neck tension as a secondary product of mouth expansion not related to annealing or sizing..
How long is the neck formed ?

How much are you sizing .
I've owned 3 rifles that had significantly better groups when I left the bodies unsized .
One of those demanded the whole body be unsized from fire form or the head and a portion of the neck.
The other 2 would allow FL and factory to literally rattle in the chamber so leaving the body fat saved case working and closed the wiggle room. . It helped case alignment wit the bore .

I'm sure you've looked at both ends of the barrel for the leade , throat , and chamber alignment as well as the crown and barrel affects.

While these items seem possibly excessive any one of them might be a coincidence fix or a big step forward.

This will read more harshly than it really is but it's a fact of life .
You can only shoot as small as you can see regardless of what the rifle and load are capable of shooting.
You have covered a lot of fundamentals really well with your reply! I've tired to pay attention to most of the items you have mentioned, but the current discovery of pretty significant variances in bullet cast inconsistency, and inconsistent geometry directly traceable to powder coating, mean that I need to cure THOSE 2 major now-known issues before re-addressing finer issues!

Jim G
 
Welcome Jim,

Wow quite the post. First of all in my experience expecting sub MOA accuracy as a standard is well, a tall order to fill. I find it to be difficult to attain with several traditional bolt actioned wood stocked rifles using jacketed bullets without some tweaks. Bedding, barrel floating, trigger work, good optics, and accompanying mounts. Composite stocks, pillar bedding, modern jacketed bullets, decent triggers, and excellent optics make that goal much easier to attain and thus we are spoiled. Especially when anyone with a keyboard can shoot sub MOA, "When they do their part."

You are trying to do this with a replica of a rifle using an ignition system that was created in the American Civil War. An enormously large hammer, swinging through an arc that can be measured in inches. The lock time while not glacial, is best described as "slow." BPCR silhouette shooters that are serious about competition don't use side hammer Sharps rifles. They use something like an 1885 Winchester with a shorter, lighter, faster hammer fall. Then there is the two piece stock, never lauded as an adjunct to fine, precise shooting. Much money gets spent modifying 1885 butt stocks with the Meacham through bolt system to try and tighten the junction of wrist and tang. And the fit of forearm to action to barrel can cause issues.
Lastly, the Malcolm-Leatherwood full length scope. Not exactly a target grade outfit to begin with and I have had at least 4 Malcolm-Leatherwood scopes and the mounts and bases have ranged from crude to nearly Chinese unusable. The accuracy you have gotten as described early in your post was frankly astounding operating under the handicaps you are.

Lastly there is the possibility that a conclave of old buffalo hunters, languishing in the hereafter drinking Taos Lightning and spittin' tabacky juice, have noticed your historical transgressions. Your blasphemous lack of adherence to tradition may have doomed your efforts from the outset.
The optics comment is a good one. I AM 73 years of age and have some macular degeneration, BUT I have that 6x Leatherwood Hi-Lux semi-authentic Malcom type full barrel length telescopic sight with a very precisely repeatable CNC vernier rear elevation adjuster, so I cannot blame my eyesight.

I also cannot blame inadequate shooter skill. I shoot my modern 6.5 Creedmoor PGW rifle at 300 yards to just over one quarter MOA 5-shot group size, thanks to careful body posture and hold, and a cardiac doctor-certified bradychardia heart rate of about 50 bpm or lower when shooting.

Besides, the analysis I presented above proves that long before we get to vision OR shooter skill, we have a serious bullet dimensional inconsistency problem. You cannot shoot consistently small groups when the bullet weight and geometry are chnaging from one bullet to the next. I need to fix that FIRST.

You could be right about the buffalo hunbters in the hereafter though. They might be pissed that I am using the godless smokeless instead of The Holy Grail Black.

Jim G
 
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Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Not as eloquent as you fellows, but here is my 2 cents.
I have messed around a bit with powder coating. But not married to it.

On the .223 in the AR15. I found that I needed to go with a custom mould, to cast a thousandth smaller. Then make that up with powder coat, then size back down to .224. To get it where I needed at 3 MOA. But Gas checked,Tumble lubed got 2moa.


The .243 got 3/4 MOA right off the bat with powder coat and a gas check. After I got the sizing right.

The 06 I ran a bore rider that casted small. Powder coat just where I wanted.
My 357.. from 38 Special mouse fart loads to Full on 357"Hot Rods" Shoots best with plain based Pan lube bullets coated with BLL. I don't argue with it.

With powder coat. I found out a little softer alloy then you normally use, often makes up for the (for lack of a better way of saying it) "loss of elasticity" the bullet core takes on due to PC. Especially when running it thick.

One thing also, I have shaken the powder back off the bullets. In a wire basket, to the point of having bare or see thru spots.To get the Size right. With no detrimental effects or leading.
I mean if you need to cull the bullets for size after powder coat, taking a mike to them. Then size also. That's what you do.
Or if you just have to go back to pan lube and gas check. Hey that's fine too.
Just don't get in the trap I was in for a while. With the mindset, I have to do it this way. Because everyone else is and it is working. Other people are not shooting your rifle. Also because one gun you have works well with something don't mean another will.