The humble Lee 312155
- Thread starter quicksylver
- Start date
Missionary
Well-Known Member
So what is this thread about anyway ?????????
quicksylver
Well-Known Member
there was an old gent who told me once that three things eventually get to us guys , 1. our knees buckle , but our belts won't, 2. we still chase women but don't remember why , 3. can't rightfully remember what the third wasbut, YES the Lee 312 2R works well in about any thing
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
Ben,
It was this site that pushed me to use NRA 50/50 which has been working well for me. But, it I could tighten up my groups with a better lube, I'd be happy to try it. I just hate the process required to change a lube in a 450 Lyman.
So, winter is coming and I need more winter therapy projects. Looking at the recipe for Ben's Red, are those percentages by weight or volume. It might not make a difference, but wanted to clarify.
Thanks.
L Ross
Well-Known Member
Changing lube, that's silly just pick up another lubri-sizer.
L Ross
Well-Known Member
Not another one. Gosh I hate our modern world. Thank God I have 7 boxes of Ohio Blue Tips squirreled away. What next? Synthetic bourbon?
fiver
Well-Known Member
JPW is
5% carnuba.
parrafin wax.
and just enough stoddard solvent to keep it all soft.
the solvent is what you smell when you open the can, and is what your cooking off when you make 45/45/10 lube.
the 10 is mineral spirits which evaporate with a little heat encouragement, but is just enough to keep the lube soft and fluid enough to get it out of the container.
5% carnuba.
parrafin wax.
and just enough stoddard solvent to keep it all soft.
the solvent is what you smell when you open the can, and is what your cooking off when you make 45/45/10 lube.
the 10 is mineral spirits which evaporate with a little heat encouragement, but is just enough to keep the lube soft and fluid enough to get it out of the container.
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I was considering using some of the babybel cheese wax for a substitute if push came to shove...
fiver
Well-Known Member
there's different 'types' of micro waxes they are based on melt point for the most part. [and a little bit to do with the size of the holes in the wax]
and have what they call a penetration sumthin or other, basically how far a pin will penetrate with so much pressure applied.
it all boils down to how much mineral oil is in the wax.
you got none [like canning wax] hard chalky brittle stuff.
down to vaseline-- no explanation necessary.
it's all pretty much the same two components, just the percentages go up and down the scale.
and have what they call a penetration sumthin or other, basically how far a pin will penetrate with so much pressure applied.
it all boils down to how much mineral oil is in the wax.
you got none [like canning wax] hard chalky brittle stuff.
down to vaseline-- no explanation necessary.
it's all pretty much the same two components, just the percentages go up and down the scale.
Bret4207
Northern NY Dangerous extremist...???
I like Babybels little cheeses, but that's a pretty expensive method of getting wax!!! Tasty, but expensive.
Bret4207
Northern NY Dangerous extremist...???
Ah! Okay, now I know. Thanks man! So in theory, if you had a ton of canning wax and wanted it softer, you could melt and add in some mineral oil to get a somewhat softer, stickier wax? I'm asking as straight canning wax often flakes off my traps, something slightly softer might work a bit better over time. Maybe Rally has played with this.
I consider it a reduce/reuse/recycle
just like all my peanut jars for sorting my as cast stuff
CZ93X62
Official forum enigma
Lee moulds get their share--maybe more--of cussing and criticism. I relate Lee moulds to Ruger firearms--if you can find one built on Tuesday-Thursday, it's a good one. If it's not, their warrantee coverage is first-rate. With the state of craftsmanship in this DGAF supply chain, that's a good thing.
I dearly love the Lee autopistol TC bullet designs. I also like a number of the Lee bore-rider rifle designs. I don't have the O/P's C312-155, but I do have #C312-185 and C309-200. Both of these shoot very well in my 30-06. A very widely spec'ed SMLE I have is served well by a Group Buy C316-200, and my G98/40 in 8 x 57 shoots lights-out with the mass-priduced C324-175. For my JES 38/55 Win 94, Lee's PB 379-250 at BP velocities is superbly accurate, and in Conder Cuddler alloy it weighs 197 grains and clocks 1350 FPS +/- 15 and shoots as well as normal tri-metal alloys. Groups ran 3/4" to 1-1/8" at 50 yards. 2" to 2-1/2" at 100, with open irons. 22.0 grains of IMR-4198 and WLR priming. (Serial cuss words go {HERE}) My deer season is likely a wash, about 6 weeks ago the right eye followed the left in letting its aftermarket lens displace, and I am waiting for surgeries to correct both. Getting old presents a wide range of problems, and 'Not driving' and 'Not shooting' upset my applecart grievously. I really want to try these Condor Cuddlers on some venison.
I dearly love the Lee autopistol TC bullet designs. I also like a number of the Lee bore-rider rifle designs. I don't have the O/P's C312-155, but I do have #C312-185 and C309-200. Both of these shoot very well in my 30-06. A very widely spec'ed SMLE I have is served well by a Group Buy C316-200, and my G98/40 in 8 x 57 shoots lights-out with the mass-priduced C324-175. For my JES 38/55 Win 94, Lee's PB 379-250 at BP velocities is superbly accurate, and in Conder Cuddler alloy it weighs 197 grains and clocks 1350 FPS +/- 15 and shoots as well as normal tri-metal alloys. Groups ran 3/4" to 1-1/8" at 50 yards. 2" to 2-1/2" at 100, with open irons. 22.0 grains of IMR-4198 and WLR priming. (Serial cuss words go {HERE}) My deer season is likely a wash, about 6 weeks ago the right eye followed the left in letting its aftermarket lens displace, and I am waiting for surgeries to correct both. Getting old presents a wide range of problems, and 'Not driving' and 'Not shooting' upset my applecart grievously. I really want to try these Condor Cuddlers on some venison.
fiver
Well-Known Member
i was hoping you'd get to too Allen.
yep some mineral oil will soften it up.
you could also try some soy wax, it's used a ton in those smelly candles.
i don't know if coffee/vanila is good for yotes etc.,, but it might be a good cover scent?
anyway, that stuff is good for making paraffin softer and smooth out better too.
mineral oil is super easy to find in your local grocery store, and it's cheap enough for a few ounces.
yep some mineral oil will soften it up.
you could also try some soy wax, it's used a ton in those smelly candles.
i don't know if coffee/vanila is good for yotes etc.,, but it might be a good cover scent?
anyway, that stuff is good for making paraffin softer and smooth out better too.
mineral oil is super easy to find in your local grocery store, and it's cheap enough for a few ounces.
Bret4207
Northern NY Dangerous extremist...???
I'm a farmer, we buy mineral oil by the gallon...
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
I use it for my mold storage!!!
On my 6cav I removed the gc shank of 4/6
On my 6cav I removed the gc shank of 4/6
L Ross
Well-Known Member
Years ago I walked into the Hazardous Waste Recycling Center in the county I lived in then and walked out with a sealed 5 gallon bucket of mineral oil. I may have used a half pint to so far.